I get saltwater taffy. You're at an ocean that is made of salt water. But doughnuts? I'm clearly missing something, because many summer communities have doughnut shops, often open just for the season. Critical summer doughnut mass seems to be concentrated in the north and east — maybe because it's always summer in California, where they have their own different doughnut culture. The summer shops usually are simple shacks with awnings and screen windows, no inside seating and a picnic table outside in the hot sun. And each one has the world's best doughnuts. In Grand Marais, Minn., near the entrance to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, there's a place that even changed its name from the Grand Marais Donut Shop to World's Best Donuts. Like many others, World's Best is a family business — fourth generation in this case. When they opened in 1969, they used a tackle box under the counter as a cash register. The business grew and moved to a bigger building. But they're still open only in
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